Butter Chicken

A dish born from happy accident

Murgh Makhani — or Butter Chicken — is one of the great culinary origin stories. Born in 1950s Delhi at the legendary Moti Mahal restaurant, it was created by Kundan Lal Gujral and his chef Kundan Lal Jaggi, who simmered leftover tandoori chicken in a rich tomato-butter-cream gravy to prevent it from drying out. The result was so extraordinary it became India's most exported dish.

Unlike many Indian curries, Butter Chicken is defined by its gentleness — a mild, sweet warmth rather than fierce heat. The magic lies in the layering: a yoghurt-spice marinade that tenderises and chars the chicken, followed by a slow-cooked sauce where tomatoes, butter, cream, and whole spices meld into something deeply luxurious.

This recipe honours that original spirit while being entirely achievable at home — no tandoor required.

The Tandoori Marinade

1. 1

   Score and season the chicken

   Cut 700g boneless chicken thighs into large chunks (about 5cm). Score each piece lightly with a knife to allow the marinade to penetrate. Season generously with salt and set aside for 5 minutes.

2. 2

   Build the marinade

   In a large bowl, combine 150ml plain full-fat yoghurt, 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste, 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder (for colour and mild heat), 1 tsp garam masala, ½ tsp turmeric, ½ tsp cumin, 1 tbsp lemon juice, and 1 tbsp neutral oil. Whisk until smooth.

3. 3

   Marinate — ideally overnight

   Coat the chicken thoroughly in the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for a minimum of 2 hours, ideally overnight. The yoghurt enzymes will tenderise the meat while the spices penetrate deeply.

4. 4

   Char under the grill

   Preheat your oven grill (broiler) to maximum. Arrange chicken on a wire rack over a foil-lined tray. Grill for 12–15 minutes, turning once, until the edges are lightly charred and the chicken is just cooked through. The char is essential — it adds smokiness to the final dish.

The Makhani Sauce

1. 5

   Bloom the whole spices

   In a wide, heavy-based pan, melt 2 tbsp butter over medium heat. Add 2 green cardamom pods (lightly crushed), 1 small cinnamon stick, and 2 cloves. Fry for 60 seconds until fragrant — the butter will take on a beautiful golden hue.

2. 6

   Build the tomato base

   Add 1 finely diced large onion and cook over medium heat for 10–12 minutes until deeply golden. Add 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste and cook for 2 minutes. Add 400g crushed tomatoes (or 6 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped), 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder, 1 tsp coriander, and ½ tsp cumin. Simmer uncovered for 15 minutes until the oil separates from the sauce.

3. 7

   Blend to velvet

   Remove the whole spices. Allow the sauce to cool slightly, then blend until completely smooth using a stick blender or upright blender. Pass through a fine sieve for an ultra-silky restaurant-quality texture — this step is optional but transformative.

4. 8

   Finish with cream and butter

   Return the blended sauce to the pan over low heat. Stir in 200ml heavy cream, 1 tbsp cold butter, 1 tsp garam masala, 1 tsp sugar (to balance acidity), and salt to taste. Simmer gently for 5 minutes — do not boil once the cream is added.

5. 9

   Unite chicken and sauce

   Add the grilled chicken pieces to the sauce. Simmer together on the lowest heat for 8–10 minutes, allowing the chicken to absorb the sauce flavours. Finish with a swirl of cream, a knob of cold butter, and a generous handful of fresh coriander leaves.

How to serve

Butter Chicken is best served immediately, while the sauce is glossy and the chicken still tender. Ladle generously into wide bowls and serve alongside warm garlic naan or basmati rice cooked with a bay leaf and a few cardamom pods.

A side of sliced cucumber raita, pickled red onion, and a wedge of lemon completes the spread. For a dinner party presentation, drizzle a thin spiral of cream over the surface and scatter a few coriander leaves and a pinch of Kashmiri chilli for colour.

Tips for perfection

• 🌶

  Kashmiri chilli is non-negotiable. It gives the sauce its iconic deep-red colour with only gentle heat. Regular chilli powder will make it too spicy and lacks the vibrant hue.

• 🍗

  Thighs over breasts. Chicken thighs stay moist through the grilling and simmering process. Breasts can dry out — if you must use them, reduce the grill time by 3–4 minutes.

• 🧈

  Cold butter at the end. Stirring in cold butter off the heat (a technique called monter au beurre) gives the sauce a glossy, restaurant-quality sheen and rounds out the flavour.

• ⏳

  It tastes better the next day. Like most braised dishes, Butter Chicken deepens in flavour overnight. Make it ahead and reheat gently — add a splash of water if the sauce thickens too much.

• 🥛

  For a lighter version, substitute half the heavy cream with full-fat coconut milk. It adds a subtle sweetness that works beautifully with the spice profile.

Step-by-step gallery

Photos on Unsplash